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In Search of the Killer Conch (Cathy)
May 14, 2003
We entered Golfito, Costa Rica with a four-dolphin escort on the bow of the boat. Cathy stood and watched them just a foot off the boat. Because Golfito is at the top of the Golfo Dulce, it's hot and humid with little windflow. There is a small section of bars and plenty of hardware stores and grocery stores to help with our boat projects and provisioning.
Golfito is a town on the northern end of the Golfo Dulce (translated to "Sweet Gulf") and the last port in Costa Rica. It's also the southernmost stop for US US Coast Guard boats. It's a thriving bar town, and one of the hottest and stickiest stops we've made. From 1938 to 1985, Golfito was one of the most important banana-growing towns in Central America, and headquarters to the United Fruit Company. The company built up the town and the original plantation worker and executives' company housing (with manicured palm gardens) still stands. The exit of the fruit company caused massive unemployment and the downfall of the local economy. However, tourism is beginning to arrive and there is a "free zone" duty free shopping area. We stocked up on cheap liquor (Mexican beers for $.50 US a beer) and a few boat items, but Costa Rica still feels expensive.
After 10 lazy and pampered days in Golfito, we finally got our new 8 horsepower Johnson motor and we were ready to leave. We stayed at Banana Bay Marina (http://www.bananabaymarina.com) on a secure mooring buoy rafted up to Synergy. Bruce Blevins and the marina crew were fantastic in helping with our engine fiasco: they tirelessly and cheerfully packed up our engine and shipped it to San Jose, and followed up with many phone calls and help translating. If you need anything to happen in Costa Rica, Bruce is the man who can help you. These were productive and spoiled days: we had ice, fresh produce, grocery stores within walking distance, showers every day, an ice cream store within steps, and ice cold beer and blender drinks beer in the bar. And many well-cooked meals and happy hours aboard Synergy and Tramonto. These were fat and happy days, but we were ready to leave and "rough it" in the islands of paradise. Golfito is the most hot and humid stop we've made.
From Golfito, we had a nice day sail to Puerto Jimenez, across the Golfo Dulce. It's a nice, calm anchorage with a great small town. We had a huge fish burrito and margaritas at a local restaurant with the crew from Synergy. This was our last stop in Costa Rica, and we were sad to leave, but excited to see the Panama we'd heard so much about.
From Puerto Jimenez, we left for a 100-mile passage to Isla Parida and the Gulf of Chiriqui. This was Cathy's first big overnight passage, and we encountered 5 foot waves, torrential downpours, wind, and countless squalls and jazzed lightening flashes. Lots of side-to-side motion, so Bonine was Cathy's best friend, keeping her drugged and unafraid but awake. Both Synergy and Tramonto caught big yellowfin tuna during the passage.
Finally, at 7 a.m. the next morning after 16 hours of constant motion, we reached Isla Parida. This is one island in the 15,000 hectare, 25 island Golf of Chiriqui National Marine Park. Who would have thought that Panama was so incredibly beautiful? I now sit on the boat looking at a deserted island that could be plopped down in the middle of the South Pacific: coconut-fringed beach, flowering plumeria trees, aqua clear water, thatched huts, and aged rocks etched with thousands of years of wind and weather. Every night, along with the crews of Swamp Angel, Synergy, Chimere, and Mamouna, we dingy to the deserted beach for a beach barbeque. When we arrived, Marc asked a local fisherman if we could purchase lobster from them. They didn't have any that day, so they gave us a huge grouper as a welcoming gift.
The first night's beach barbecue consisted of grouper ceviche, fried poke cakes made from the ahi tuna, salads, and barbecued ahi. A great group of people, great food, and a brilliant location. The full moon is visible through the coconut fronds and lighting up the beach and the mirror-calm water for our dingy ride home.
The people here are wonderful and we feel like we're in a tropical paradise. The natives dropped by yesterday in their motorized dugout to trade fruits. We got a bunch of the freshest, sweetest bananas, five avocados, five mangos, and a pineapple all for the price of 6 envelopes of chicken bouillon and some powdered drink mix! Last night, we bought lobsters from the fisherman at $3.50 per pound: 3 lobsters for $8 US! Tonight, we have 5 lobsters and three fish that we traded for, so it looks like there's another beach barbeque ahead.
Today, we plan to search for the elusive and not-so-famous "Killer Conch". You may think of conch as large and slow-moving snails, but this special breed evidently harbors a vicious side. According to one of our books, these conchs can "attack you aggressively, albeit slowly" when picked up. Evidently, they can slowly pierce your hand with their horny foot if you are not vigilant against their vicious attacks. Perhaps conch fritters for dinner?
It's only day three and Panama has already exceeded our wildest expectations. Any lingering disappointment about not making it to the South Pacific is rapidly evaporating, because we feel like we're already here without the month-long passage.
Next, we plan to explore the mountainous highlands and coffee farms around the extinct volcanoes. The air is supposed to be non-humid and the temperatures cool, so we look forward to the break from the heat.
See photos of Isla Parida, a tropical paradise.
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