Overall, the Golf of Tehuantepec crossing was very pleasant, but a little more wind would have been nice. During the passage, my alternator stopped charging. After several hours with a multi meter crammed in a hot engine compartment, I tracked the problem back to the on/off switch that the voltage regulator is wired to. I replaced the switch, flicked it on, and still no power. A few more hours later I located an inline fuse that must have shaken loose at some point. I tightened it down, threw the switch, and Wahoo! Power!

I wasn't the only one who had issues during the passage. On the first day out of Hualtuco Jaberwoky's alternator mounting bolt sheared off. They were unable to motor, so I slowed down and they sailed along side so I could hand off a drill and some extra bolts. Waterdragon and Seahorse also handed off spare parts and tools. Then, on the last night of the passage Jaberwoky started taking on water. Their bilge filled three times throughout the night, so finally they sailed into Puerto Madero and dropped anchor. I had considered just sailing straight to El Salvador; however, since Waterdragon and Jaberwoky both stopped in Madero I figured it would be easier to stop also. As soon as we sailed in we were boarded by the Navy, who brought aboard a drug-sniffing dog. We discussed our plans and eventually decided that since we really didn't know what we would run into in El Salvador or when we would be able to check into the country, that Tim and Rob (the British guys helping me sail) should get off in Madero. Since I had already checked out of the country, this would require going to the Port Captain and getting a new crew list and Zarpe. Now that I have essentially checked out of the country in both Huatulco and Madero, I would never stop in Hualtuco again. Although Madero is not the most scenic port, it certainly is more efficient and cost-effective. The port captain is very helpful and only charges the checkout fee if you're not staying more than a few days. Next time, I will wait in one of the bays around Huatulco for a weather window then check out in Madero. Leaving Madero yesterday we were all boarded by the Navy once again.

At about 11:00 we were finally underway. Had a great sail throughout most of the day. It was at least 90 degrees and I really wanted to go for a swim, so Chris from Jaberwoky jumped overboard and swam over to Tramonto while we were still sailing. He manned the helm while I jumped overboard and dragged behind the boat on a rope across the Guatemalan border. At 3:00 pm I lowered the Mexican courtesy flag and sailed into Guatemalan waters.

The wind has died, and I'm motor sailing along at 5 knts. At this point I'm about 17 miles offshore beating inshore. Tonight I expect 30 knt winds out of the northeast with northeastern. If I tuck in next to shore the ride should be a little more comfortable. There is a popular saying that a gentlemen never sails to weather; well, if that is the case then Central America must be devoid of gentlemen sailors. Since leaving Zihuatanejo, I have sailed to weather the entire way. From the waters where, luckily for me, a gentleman would never sail.

Hasta Luego

See a map of Guatemala at MSN Encarta.