Current Position: N 10 26.237 W 085 47.247
My GPS log shows 4,127 nautical miles have been covered since leaving Elliott Bay, Seattle. It's been quite a trip:
- 123 days spent consistently aboard Tramonto
- 2,952 Hours away from home
- 5 Countries have passed by her port side with me aboard
In some of my other road trips, I've covered more miles in a lot less time. I've spent more consecutive days in smaller environments such as in school detention (although not as fun). This represents only 32 more hours than the typical person spends sleeping in a year, and you could pass through 5 countries in Europe within 24 hours with minimal effort. No, these numbers alone mean nothing.
What else have I encountered? 1 bastard Outboard Engine, 5 Gales, 1 ripped sail, 22 ports of call, countless new friends along with countless malted beverages, 1 volunteer project, and 15 days spent sleeping in 15 minute increments. This adds a bit more perspective, but still doesn't summarize all that has transpired.
Today is February 16, 2003. I'm sitting in Marina Flamingo, Costa Rica. Costa Rica is a turning point for Tramonto and myself, and a bit of a milestone. When I left Seattle I had some very specific ideas of what I wanted to accomplish during this trip. And I also had some undefineable feelings or ideas I hoped to discover. Some people cruise for the sake of cruising, for the enjoyment and relaxation. I left Seattle for these reasons, but also for others: the ideas of personal accomplishment, expanding my worldview, helping others, learning, and simply experiencing life in a different way. Oh, of course how could I forget surfing?
Costa Rica now seems like the appropriate time to reflect upon what has happened in the last several months while also planning for the next leg of this journey. Many things have happened -- some I anticipated, most I did not. I've traveled the last 1,400 miles alone: something I never anticipated. During that time I've been fortunate enough to buddy boat with several great people and even have crew aboard for some short stretches. During this time, I've also been pushed mentally and physically for some of the longest stretches I have ever endured. The personal accomplishment has been outstanding, while the loneliness at times has been like none I've ever known.
Jeff, who left a few months ago due to unfortunate circumstances, has recently informed me that he will not be able to return for any portion of the trip. Another item I never anticipated. This item alone has the potential to redefine this entire trip beyond the need to singlehand across the Pacific -- something at this point I feel fully capable of doing. I budgeted this entire trip based on two people sharing the costs of port fees, diesel, and maintenance. And my costs as a singlehander have been well beyond my initial budget; the amount of money spent on diesel alone in windless Mexico was staggering. In addition, a few things have broken aboard Tramonto. Of course, most of these broken items I never anticipated would break, but I've been able to fix them with a manual, headlamp, some random tool, and lots of swearing. Others I've had to attempt to find suitable replacements in countries where boat parts are hard to find.
At the beginning of this trip, Costa Rica represented simply a spot to surf, wait out the cyclone season, and head west. Now it stands as a milestone — a place where a major decision must be made. Where do I want to be when the money runs low?
It makes sense to try and time this eventuality with landfall in a country which I can get work and replenish the cruising kitty. While remembering there is a stark difference between running low and running out. Three choices come to mind:
- Head east at Panama, cruise the Caribbean, maybe stop by Cuba then head up the East Coast where I should be able to find work;
- Go West as planned and cut the trip through the South Pacific short making for Hawaii earlier than planned;
- Keep with the original plan and fish a whole lot more.
Honestly, it's hard to even consider options other than the original plan. Failure is the first word that comes to my mind while considering altering the plan. The second word is defeat. And neither word sits well. Although I know deep down inside, this trip has produced the exact opposite of failure or defeat. Writing these words aren't meant to convince anyone else of this, it's an attempt to convince myself and remember why I'm doing this. All three of these options can help fullfill my goals. And even if this trip ended today I have learned far more than I ever expected. More importantly, my perspective of the world has been forever altered in a positive way.
Looking ahead I've made only one decision. For the next twenty days Tramonto will continue to move south. During that time period, I will surf some of the world's best-known waves, hike the jungles, and hopefully launch myself off a waterfall or two. Then, who knows, maybe there is a fourth option. Possibly Cape Horn?
